![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
surf journal #1
Aug. 21st, 2003 12:21 pmA couple of weeks ago I was perusing a website about surfing and learning to surf. The guy who wrote it said that when he started surfing, he had a big desk calendar pad that he would jot notes on every time he went out. Now, years later, he has a big stack of paper that is his surf journal. I like the idea but I'm not very good at managing paper. Then I remembered that I do this really cool thing called live journal. A clue was born.
Last night I met up with the surf club for a viewing of a new movie called "Step into Liquid." I had read a review on salon that says it doesn't measure up to the surf gold standard "Endless Summer," a movie created by the filmmaker's father. Their main criticism was that if you aren't a surfer, listening to people gush about surfing is lame. In essence, "shut up and surf." There were a couple of places in the movie that were a little trite, but for the most part, I not only liked the gushing, I agreed with it. Except they kept saying that real surfer's don't say "dude." That's just a lie. I say it all the time. Gushing aside, there was some phenomenal big-wave surf footage including Pia'hi (jaws) and Cortes, which is deep ocean surf generated by an undersea mountain. The guys were surfing 60' waves. They also included novelty footage. I liked listening to the great lakes surfers talking about their gnarly rides on 1' waves.
Of the surf club, only the pres. and the windsurf guru showed up. I think I am quickly establishing a reputation as the gung-ho newbie. That's pretty ironic for me. But I really want to make a surf buddy. At said website mentioned above, the author talked about finding someone who is at your level and learning to surf together, that this person will become more than a friend but a bro. Even step-into-liquid showcased some of the best surfers in the world who grew up as kids surfing together. I would like to have a surf buddy to learn with. What do you say marcee? Can I talk you into it?
Last night I met up with the surf club for a viewing of a new movie called "Step into Liquid." I had read a review on salon that says it doesn't measure up to the surf gold standard "Endless Summer," a movie created by the filmmaker's father. Their main criticism was that if you aren't a surfer, listening to people gush about surfing is lame. In essence, "shut up and surf." There were a couple of places in the movie that were a little trite, but for the most part, I not only liked the gushing, I agreed with it. Except they kept saying that real surfer's don't say "dude." That's just a lie. I say it all the time. Gushing aside, there was some phenomenal big-wave surf footage including Pia'hi (jaws) and Cortes, which is deep ocean surf generated by an undersea mountain. The guys were surfing 60' waves. They also included novelty footage. I liked listening to the great lakes surfers talking about their gnarly rides on 1' waves.
Of the surf club, only the pres. and the windsurf guru showed up. I think I am quickly establishing a reputation as the gung-ho newbie. That's pretty ironic for me. But I really want to make a surf buddy. At said website mentioned above, the author talked about finding someone who is at your level and learning to surf together, that this person will become more than a friend but a bro. Even step-into-liquid showcased some of the best surfers in the world who grew up as kids surfing together. I would like to have a surf buddy to learn with. What do you say marcee? Can I talk you into it?
